Owayesakuba ngumpheki waseFransi wokuhlamba impahla uGrant Achatz wayekwincopho yomsebenzi wakhe omncinci ngokungenakwenzeka kwaye uzuke kakhulu - umpheki ophumelele ibhaso likaJames Beard kunye nomnini weyona ndawo yokutyela iphezulu yesizwe, iChicago's Alinea - xa umntu owayeneminyaka engama-33 ubudala wafunyaniswa enesifo esibulalayo. umhlaza womlomo owayonakalisa incasa yakhe kwaye wabonakala ekulungele ukuthatha ubomi bakhe, naye.



Kodwa akunakwenzeka lilizwi nje, ngakumbi ku-Nick Kokonas, umhlobo osenyongweni ka-Achatz kunye neqabane leshishini e-Alinea, indawo yokutyela egama layo lithetha uloliwe omtsha wokucinga. I-Alinea yakhiwe phezu kwengcamango yokwaphula imiqobo, ukudiliza izitya kunye nokuzihlanganisa kwakhona kumava amatsha anomdla - i-foie gras eyaphukileyo ngeentyatyambo, i-artichokes eboshiweyo kunye ne-truffle yolwelo. Imagazini yeGourmet yathambisa indawo yokutyela eyona ibalaseleyo eMelika ngo-2006.

Ukuxilongwa komhlaza ka-Achatz kwafika ngaphantsi konyaka kamva. I-prognosis yayimbi kwaye iindlela zonyango zazisoyikeka. UBeethoven kunye namanye amabali abaqambi abazizithulu namagcisa aziimfama ecaleni, luhlobo luni lompheki ocinga ngokususa ulwimi lwakhe ngayo nantoni na esondelayo ezolileyo? U-Achatz wayephelile xa uKokonas wamtsalela kwiYunivesithi yaseChicago, apho oogqirha, wathi, babenololiwe omtsha wokucinga. Yayiluhambo olwasindisa ubomi buka-Achatz.





Namhlanje, uAlinea uyachuma. U-Achatz kunye noKokonas bavula indawo yokutyela entsha kunye ne-cocktail lounge e-Chicago kamva kule ntwasahlobo, kwaye babuyela eSan Francisco kwiveki ezayo, phakathi kokhenketho lweencwadi kwimemori yabo, uBomi, kwi-Line.

Ayisiyo nje ibali lendawo yokutyela enqabileyo, efakwe kwimbonakalo yomntu wonke ovela kwiFrench Laundry kaThomas Keller ukuya kumpheki we-mercurial waseChicago uCharlie Trotter kunye noFerran Adria waseSpain odumileyo ka-El Bulli. Kwaye ayisiyontsomi nje yobuhlobo kunye nosapho, nangona abafundi baya kuthanda ukufumanisa ukuba ngubani na unyana omncinci ka-Achatz. I-riveting page-turner kunye neendinyana ezichaza ukubuyiswa kuka-Achatz kunye nokubuyela kumgca oshiya abafundi belambele ukuva oko kwenzekayo emva kokuba incwadi iphelile.



Ke xa u-Achatz efowunela ukuncokola, sasinemibuzo emininzi - malunga nencwadi, abapheki kunye nobuntu, kwaye kwenzeka ntoni emva koko.

Q: UCharlie Trotter ngokuqinisekileyo akafiki efudumele kwaye engenangqondo. Ngaba ukhe uthethe naye?



A: Ngamanye amaxesha ndiya kumbona, egijima okanye ehamba nenja yakhe, xa ndisendleleni eya emsebenzini. Andiqondi ukuba abantu bayaqonda ukuba izinto zobuntu bakhe kunye nomlingiswa wakhe ekugqibeleni zaba zezam.

Umbuzo: Enje ...?



IMPENDULO: Olo sukelo luqhubekayo lwemfezeko, umoya wokhuphiswano oluphezulu, loo ndlela-okanye-nto yokwenza eyona ndawo yokutyela. Ndinentlonipho kwihlabathi lonke kuCharlie.

Umbuzo: Kwaye uThomas Keller?



A: Kuphantse ukuba akunakwenzeka ukubala oko. Into ngeLaundry yesiFrentshi kukuba, bendilapho ixesha elide kwaye kwinqanaba elibaluleke kakhulu, elingenakulinganiswa ebusheni bam kunye nobomi bam, njengomntu nanjengompheki. Impendulo emfutshane, ngokunyaniseka, yiyo yonke into - yonke into ukusuka kwindlela yokupheka ukuya kwindlela yokuphila ubomi bakho, ndayithatha kuye. Xa ulapho ixesha elide kwaye usela i-Kool-Aid ngendlela endenze ngayo, ifakwe kuwe ibe nguwe.

Umbuzo: Ngexesha lokugula kwakho okubuhlungu, uye walahlekelwa ngokupheleleyo yimvakalelo yakho yokungcamla. Masithethe ngaloo nto.

A: Ixesha elide, elide - ngokoqobo iinyanga ezili-11 ukuya kunyaka - ndingabeka nantoni na emlonyeni wam kwaye ayiyi kunambitha nantoni na. Yayiyeyona nto imangalisayo, ngakumbi kumntu onikela ubomi bakhe bonke ekungcamleni nasekuphekeni. Loo nto yayiyeyona nto yayibangela ukuba ndehle emzimbeni. Kwakungekho sizathu sibambekayo sokutya nokutya. Akukho lonwabo. Idlala ngokwenene ngentloko yakho.

Umbuzo: Kwakunjani njengoko loo mvakalelo yabuyayo?

A: Yabuya ngezigaba - i-sweet yaba ngowokuqala, emva koko inetyuwa, ikrakra, i-asidi. Ndicinga ukuba indenze umpheki ongcono, kuba njengomntu omdala, ndiye ndazibonela ukuvela kwaloo ngqiqo ngendlela umntwana osandul 'ukuzalwa aqhubela ngayo. Xa uqala ukuzalwa, unokungcamla okumnandi kuphela. Xa uneenyanga ezi-3 ubudala, awuyazi into eyenzekayo. Njengomntu omdala oneminyaka engama-33 ubudala, ungayisonga intloko yakho malunga nomsebenzi wencasa kunye nencasa. Xa yonke into onokuyingcamla iswiti kwaye kungekho enye into, unokuluma iartichoke ekrwada, i-espresso ephindwe kane kwaye ayinakungcamla krakra. Umzuzu unokungcamla ubukrakra, uyabuqonda ubudlelwane beswiti kunye nekrakra, indlela abanxibelelana ngayo kunye nokuba kuthetha ukuthini ukuvumba. Emva koko ityuwa ingena kwaye uthelekisa ezo zixhobo. Yayiyinto.

Q: Ukujongana nencasa evuselelayo, ukuchacha kwi-chemo - loo nto iyichaphazele njani into ebisenzeka ekhitshini lakho?

A: Ndisebenze yonke indlela - ndiphoswe kancinane ekugqibeleni, kuba bendingumdaka nje. Kwabakho uhlengahlengiso. Ngomnye, awukwazi ukungcamla, kwaye ngoku ungena emsebenzini? Kukho ukuguqulwa kwendima enkulu. Bendizobe ndenza isoso bendizoyinika omnye wabapheki ukuba ayivavanye bazondixelela ukuba idinga ntoni. Iindwendwe, zazingena kwaye zingaqinisekanga ukuba zingenza njani kufutshane nam. Kodwa umsebenzi ngumsebenzi. Awunalo ukhetho ngenene. Abantu abangama-60 ababendisebenzela babelindele ukuba nditsibe kanye equleni.

Q: Ngoku unalo ukhenketho lweencwadi hayi enye, kodwa iindawo ezimbini ezintsha ezivulayo?

A: I-Aviary iya kuba yi-Alinea yelizwe le-cocktail, uhlobo lokukrazula ukuba yintoni i-cocktail bar, ukuyiphatha kwaye emva koko uyibuyisele kunye ngendlela enyanzelekileyo kunye nentsingiselo. Ukutya konke kuya kuba kukutya kweminwe okuqhubekayo. Akukho nto kwisitya okanye isitya kwaye akukho nto kufuneka idliwe nge-flatware. Njenge-nigiri okanye i-tapas - eso simbo - kodwa siqhubela phambili kwaye sisebenzise ubuchule e-Alinea.

Q: Kwaye Okulandelayo, indawo yakho yokutyela entsha?

A: Iyonke ifilosofi, yindawo yokutyela entsha rhoqo ngekota - ngokusekwe kwindawo kunye nexesha. Ngoko, eParis ngowe-1906, eSicily ngowe-1946.

Mbz:Siva ukuba amaxabiso akaqhelekanga nawo. Isidlo sangokuhlwa?

A: Uya kuhamba kwindawo yethu, njengokuba ubuthenga itikiti kumboniso weBroadway. Kwaye icandelo lokuhlawula kwangaphambili liyaguquguquka, ngokwesiseko, sinenkqubo esivumela ukuba sibeke amaxabiso- andifuni kuthetha into enqwenelekayo, kodwa wonke umntu uyathanda ukutya ngoMgqibelo ebusuku nge-7, yithi yi-85 yeedola. Unokuba nemenyu echanekileyo efanayo, amava afanayo ngqo kwi-$ 65 ngoLwesithathu ngo-9: 15, kuba i-slot ethandwa kakhulu.

Umbuzo: Ah. Njengamatikiti endiza. Kuphela ngaphandle komthwalo olahlekileyo?

A: (Ehleka) Kulungile.

Q: Ke, kutheni 1906 Paris?

A: Escoffier. Ngu-1906, ngokusekwe kwiincwadi zakhe zokupheka kunye nokubhala kunye neendlela zokupheka - ngokwezwi nezwi. Ekuqaleni, sasiza kwenza i-bistro yaseParis, kodwa yayiyinto encinci kakhulu kum. Bendifuna ukwenza uhlobo lwembeko kwinto endiziva ngathi umpheki ngamnye wakhela phezu kwayo njengesiseko: I-Escoffier, ukupheka okucokisekileyo kwamaFrentshi kwasekuqaleni koo-1900s. Ungutata omkhulu kubo bonke.

Umbuzo: Iphelile, huh?

A: Ukutya kutyebile kwaye akukholeleki. Siye saziqhelanisa phezolo eAlinea. Abantu babeyitya njani le nto rhoqo ebusuku ngelo xesha? Bamele ukuba babesihla okweempukane ngenxa yokuhlaselwa sisifo sentliziyo.

Ubomi, kwi-Line

FUNDA: Ubomi, kumgca: Ibali loMpheki lokusukela uBukhulu, ukujamelana nokufa, kunye nokuchaza kwakhona indlela esiyidla ngayo, nguGrant Achatz noNick Kokonas (Iincwadi zeGotham, i-320 iphe., i-$ 27.50)
UKUHLANGANA: UGrant Achatz noNick Kokonas baza kube betyikitya iikopi zencwadi yabo ethi, Life, on the Line ngo-12:30 p.m. I-17 kaMatshi kwi-Book Passage kwiSakhiwo seFerry yaseSan Francisco, kunye ne-5 p.m. kwiincwadi zeOmnivore. (Intetho yabo ye-6 ntambama, inzuzo yeNkqubo yoPhando lweCancer yeNtloko kunye neNtamo kwiYunivesithi yaseChicago, ithengiswa ngaphandle.) Ngeenkcukacha, tyelela www.bookpassage.com kwaye http://omnivorebooks.com .
DINE: Ukuba uya eChicago, ngcamla ukutya kukaGrant Achatz kwindawo yakhe yokutyela ephumelele ibhaso, i-Alinea ( www.alinea-restaurant.com ), kunye neAviary Lounge kunye nendawo yokutyela elandelayo ( http://nextrestaurant.com ), ehlelelwe ukuvula le ntwasahlobo.




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